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Thursday, July 15, 2010
Miss Trude's
I've included this piece for completeness only. I'm not particularily proud of this piece anymore, and I will be turning it into a ruined structure when time permits.
The first piece I decided to build for my city gaming board was a base of operations for my gang of street girls and doms. I wanted to give them a fortified building, but a simple apartment building would have been too dull. I decided to go with a seedy gentlemen's club theme instead. Miss Trude's Live Nude Girls is a plain building with loud signs that attracts loud and unruly clientelle.
Miss Trude's is simply two foamcore boxes stacked on top of each other. The second floor and roof are removable to allow access to the inside.
The first and second floor walls were constructed by cutting a 1/4" notch off of the end of the foamcore, removing one layer of card and the foam inside. The outside layer of card was left intact and was glued to the edge of the next piece of foamcore. This allowed the exposed foamcore edge to be covered up.
A doorway was cut into the front and back of the first floor. Doors were built and installed, and then the first floor was glued directly to the 12" x 12" double- corrugated cardboard base (with edges covered with masking tape to cover the corrugations, as usual.) A floor was made of foamcore for the second floor, with a notch cut out for the stairway and a hole cut for the pole to the first floor. The roof was also made of foamcore with a notch cut out for the roof hatch.
The sidewalk was added my cutting into the cardboard base, then using a blunt pencil to push in the cuts to give the impression of concrete pavers.
Once the floors were assembled and dry the carpeting was put in place. The carpeting is a type of felt with an adhesive backing on it. I bought it at craft store for $1.00 a piece and the building required 2 pieces.
Thin card was used to trim the building. It also helped hide the seams between the stackable floors and keeps the roof and second story from moving around while the building floors are stacked on each other.
The doors were made by folding a piece of card in half and glueing a length of wire in the crease. The folded card was then glued to itself and the ends of the wire were inserted into holes in the base and in the top of the door opening.
The stairs were built by stacking varying lengths of foamcore and glueing them together. The interior walls are simply foamcore.
The stages are thick plastic card mounted on foamcore. Holes were drilled to accomodate the poles, which are just bamboo skewers. The stages were painted outside of the building and glued into place after the interior was painted.
Some other odd bits were added here and there; a hatch was added to the roof, a piece of model railroad track acts as the ladder to the roof. The vent- thing on the roof is just an old T.V tuner knob.
The sign on the roof was made of corrugated plastic and bamboo skewers for supports.
The exterior of the building was hand painted with textured paint. Two coats were applied for best coverage. The outside was then drybrushed a dark grey, then light gray and finally white.
The interior walls were painted pink. The paint was slopped on, giving the impression of worn, patched and repainted walls. The doors were painted grey on the outside, and the sign and vent on the roof were drybrushed silver.
The stages were painted with gold poles and red tops. The surface of the stages were then given a clear gloss coat.
The carpeting was drybrushed in browns and blacks to give the impression of lots of dirty feet tracking through the club.
The signs were created using Microsoft Word and the posters on the walls are scans of callgirl cards I picked up in Las Vegas (I KNEW those things would come in handy.) They were given a light gray drybrush to tone the colors down.
Miss Trude's is simply two foamcore boxes stacked on top of each other. The second floor and roof are removable to allow access to the inside.
The first and second floor walls were constructed by cutting a 1/4" notch off of the end of the foamcore, removing one layer of card and the foam inside. The outside layer of card was left intact and was glued to the edge of the next piece of foamcore. This allowed the exposed foamcore edge to be covered up.
A doorway was cut into the front and back of the first floor. Doors were built and installed, and then the first floor was glued directly to the 12" x 12" double- corrugated cardboard base (with edges covered with masking tape to cover the corrugations, as usual.) A floor was made of foamcore for the second floor, with a notch cut out for the stairway and a hole cut for the pole to the first floor. The roof was also made of foamcore with a notch cut out for the roof hatch.
The sidewalk was added my cutting into the cardboard base, then using a blunt pencil to push in the cuts to give the impression of concrete pavers.
Once the floors were assembled and dry the carpeting was put in place. The carpeting is a type of felt with an adhesive backing on it. I bought it at craft store for $1.00 a piece and the building required 2 pieces.
Thin card was used to trim the building. It also helped hide the seams between the stackable floors and keeps the roof and second story from moving around while the building floors are stacked on each other.
The doors were made by folding a piece of card in half and glueing a length of wire in the crease. The folded card was then glued to itself and the ends of the wire were inserted into holes in the base and in the top of the door opening.
The stairs were built by stacking varying lengths of foamcore and glueing them together. The interior walls are simply foamcore.
The stages are thick plastic card mounted on foamcore. Holes were drilled to accomodate the poles, which are just bamboo skewers. The stages were painted outside of the building and glued into place after the interior was painted.
Some other odd bits were added here and there; a hatch was added to the roof, a piece of model railroad track acts as the ladder to the roof. The vent- thing on the roof is just an old T.V tuner knob.
The sign on the roof was made of corrugated plastic and bamboo skewers for supports.
The exterior of the building was hand painted with textured paint. Two coats were applied for best coverage. The outside was then drybrushed a dark grey, then light gray and finally white.
The interior walls were painted pink. The paint was slopped on, giving the impression of worn, patched and repainted walls. The doors were painted grey on the outside, and the sign and vent on the roof were drybrushed silver.
The stages were painted with gold poles and red tops. The surface of the stages were then given a clear gloss coat.
The carpeting was drybrushed in browns and blacks to give the impression of lots of dirty feet tracking through the club.
The signs were created using Microsoft Word and the posters on the walls are scans of callgirl cards I picked up in Las Vegas (I KNEW those things would come in handy.) They were given a light gray drybrush to tone the colors down.
Underhive Buildings
Here are a couple of old terrain pieces that don't seem to have a home yet. It's been a long time since I built them so let me try to walk though the process, if I can remember.
The Egg Room
This is a survivor from my original underhive set. The walls and floor are all metal panels from inside computers; fan covers, power supply cases, etc. They were arranged in a manner that let them look most like a room and actually hot glued together. Suprisingly the hot glue has held up all these years! Cross stitch fabric was glued over some some of the openings, and distressed to allow egress through them during gameplay.
The alien pods are wooden eggs purchased at a craft store. They were also glued in place with hot glue.
The entire piece was primed black and painted hunter green. The structure was drybrushed a few lighter shades of green. The pods were painted brown and given a green ink wash. They were then drybrushed a ligher shade of brown. The slime effect on the pods was achieved simply by stringing hot glue down the eggs.
Industrial Structure
This piece is a sister piece to the Pumping Station. This one is also based off of the case from a Battlebots RC car. All of the techniques used on the first piece were also used here.
Details were added using wire, straws, N scale railroad tracks, cross stitch fabric, and some numbers off of an old clock. The biohazard sign was clipped form an industrial supply catalog and glued into place.
The Egg Room
This is a survivor from my original underhive set. The walls and floor are all metal panels from inside computers; fan covers, power supply cases, etc. They were arranged in a manner that let them look most like a room and actually hot glued together. Suprisingly the hot glue has held up all these years! Cross stitch fabric was glued over some some of the openings, and distressed to allow egress through them during gameplay.
The alien pods are wooden eggs purchased at a craft store. They were also glued in place with hot glue.
The entire piece was primed black and painted hunter green. The structure was drybrushed a few lighter shades of green. The pods were painted brown and given a green ink wash. They were then drybrushed a ligher shade of brown. The slime effect on the pods was achieved simply by stringing hot glue down the eggs.
Industrial Structure
This piece is a sister piece to the Pumping Station. This one is also based off of the case from a Battlebots RC car. All of the techniques used on the first piece were also used here.
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
1/72 Crates
I sure wish I still had these as they would be great objective markers now that I have started collecting 1/72 figures.
Warjack Fueling Station- Painting
The tanks, regulator, pipes and pump were painted with this technique from Brush Thralls. The only difference is I sponged on a light layer of GW Boltgun Metal as the last step.
Pump pistons were painted GW Boltgun Metal, all valve handles were painted red, and the ladder was done in wood colors. I didn't paint the CD before laying down the sand, so you could see the reflective surface even after priming. To remedy this I inked the entire base in brown. The base was then drybrushed a dark brown to a medium brown.
Small lengths of twine were cut and untwisted. They were glued along the edges of the tank with white glue. The ground cover is the standard mix. The bush is a bit of green lichen with course turf glued on. A small amount of watered down white glue was gently brushed to the course turf and some ground tea leaves sprinkled on top. The tea leaves are too much.
Warjack Fueling Station- Construction
I built this as something quick for May-June Terragenesis Terrain Competition. The only requirement was that it had to fit onto a CD. After finishing the tedious and not- too- creative Axis and Allies Miniatures terrain, I needed to build something. This is what I came up with.
I play Warmachine but know little about the background story. I figured warjacks are steam powered and have a boiler, so they would have to lug around water to create steam. Right? So this is a water fueling station. Or it could be the largest keg in the Iron Kingdoms. Either way I'm happy. Click pictures for larger views.
The core of the project, or "water tank", is the bottom half of a contact lense saline bottle. This was hot glued to the CD. A pumping arm was built from two lengths of drinking straw and two plastic card pieces cut to size. The grommets at the bottom of the pump pistons are donut- shaped beads.
The roof is made from the top, tapered portion of the bottle. The nozzle was cut off and an old hatch from a GW Rhino glued into place. The entire piece was hot glued into place.
The fueling nozzle and regulator are made from the exhaust off of a Ferrari model. This was mounted onto a piece of thin card glued to the tank. Another piece of card was attached next to the pump to accomate an instrument cluster. The three gauges are made from lights from a model car.
The verticle pipes are simply drinking straws. Rivets were punched out of thin plastic with a leather punch and glued into place with super glue. These were used on the mounting plates for the instrument cluster and fueling regulator, as well as on the pump mechanism. Valve handles on the top hatch, verticle pipes and fueling nozzle are nylon snaps for womens clothing.
A bead of hot glue was run down the seams on the top and sides of the tank to simulate a weld. This was also done around where the verticle pipes attach to the tank. The ladder is a modified MegaBloks Dragons toy.
The base is simply covered in sand attached with white glue.
I play Warmachine but know little about the background story. I figured warjacks are steam powered and have a boiler, so they would have to lug around water to create steam. Right? So this is a water fueling station. Or it could be the largest keg in the Iron Kingdoms. Either way I'm happy. Click pictures for larger views.
Starting components: CD, Bottle bottom, beads and pumping mechanism.
The core of the project, or "water tank", is the bottom half of a contact lense saline bottle. This was hot glued to the CD. A pumping arm was built from two lengths of drinking straw and two plastic card pieces cut to size. The grommets at the bottom of the pump pistons are donut- shaped beads.
The roof is made from the top, tapered portion of the bottle. The nozzle was cut off and an old hatch from a GW Rhino glued into place. The entire piece was hot glued into place.
The fueling nozzle and regulator are made from the exhaust off of a Ferrari model. This was mounted onto a piece of thin card glued to the tank. Another piece of card was attached next to the pump to accomate an instrument cluster. The three gauges are made from lights from a model car.
The verticle pipes are simply drinking straws. Rivets were punched out of thin plastic with a leather punch and glued into place with super glue. These were used on the mounting plates for the instrument cluster and fueling regulator, as well as on the pump mechanism. Valve handles on the top hatch, verticle pipes and fueling nozzle are nylon snaps for womens clothing.
A bead of hot glue was run down the seams on the top and sides of the tank to simulate a weld. This was also done around where the verticle pipes attach to the tank. The ladder is a modified MegaBloks Dragons toy.
The base is simply covered in sand attached with white glue.
Underhive Terrain- Bridges Part 2
Again, all of the bridges are based on a double layer of foamcore; the top layer about 1/2" longer than the bottom. This gives the bridge a little "lip" to place on a platform and helps keep the bridge from sliding around too much. A short description of each type of bridge is below:
The Post Bridge
This short bridge uses the off- cuts of K'nex pieces for posts along the edges. Decking is done in granny grating. Edges are covered in drinking straws. The decking is drybrushed silver. The posts are yellow.
The Heavy Bridge
This bridge has PC hard drive brackets for railings. Drinking straws cover up any other exposed edges. Decking is granny grating. Painted tan, inked brown and drybrushed again.
Normal Bridges
These bridges are simple in construction. The left bridge simply has cross stitch fabric as the base, and thin card glued over the sides and top. Sections were cut from the card on top and it was simply glued over the decking. The bridge on the right also uses the fabric decking. The walls are thin card, the supports matchsticks cut to length and glued into the holes in the fabric. Punched plastic rivets accect the piece. Painting is green and silver, inked chestnut ink and black, then drybrushed.
The Post Bridge
This short bridge uses the off- cuts of K'nex pieces for posts along the edges. Decking is done in granny grating. Edges are covered in drinking straws. The decking is drybrushed silver. The posts are yellow.
The Heavy Bridge
This bridge has PC hard drive brackets for railings. Drinking straws cover up any other exposed edges. Decking is granny grating. Painted tan, inked brown and drybrushed again.
Normal Bridges
These bridges are simple in construction. The left bridge simply has cross stitch fabric as the base, and thin card glued over the sides and top. Sections were cut from the card on top and it was simply glued over the decking. The bridge on the right also uses the fabric decking. The walls are thin card, the supports matchsticks cut to length and glued into the holes in the fabric. Punched plastic rivets accect the piece. Painting is green and silver, inked chestnut ink and black, then drybrushed.
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