Blood Bowl Counters

And to finish off the Blood Bowl stuff, the counters for the board:

After the pitch and dugouts were complete, there was only one thing left to do before the board could be used: Create counters so you could actually tell what turn it was and who was winning!


All of the counters are mounted on standard 1" round slotted bases. A piece of masking tape covers the slot and a hole was punched in the center of the tape to allow a long Games Workshop flight stand to be inserted into it.

The bases were painted blue and red so there would be a set for each team. The bases were then flocked with the same mixture used on the pitch and dugouts.

The tops of the bases are different, depending on what the counter represents. The counters are as follows:

Re- Roll Counters

The re- roll counters allow you throw a die again after an undesirable result has been rolled. These counters were made simply by drilling out the pip on the "1" side of a small d6 and super gluing to the peg on the top of the flight stand.  16 of these were made; 8 for each team.

Touchdown Counters

The touchdown counter is used to note how many touchdowns you have scored this game. These were made from flat, plastic footballs which originally had a spike at the bottom. They were purchased at a party supply store and were originally for holding sandwiches together, like a toothpick or skewer. The spike was cut off and then they were carefully drilled out to accommodate the peg on the flight stand. The ball was then superglued to the flight stand. Two of these were made; one for each team.

Turn Counters

The turn counters are used to keep track of which turn it is in which half of the game. The original game uses cardboard chips with a skull on it.

I cast two skulls from the Hirst Arts fieldstone wall mold, primed them black and drybrushed them from dark grey to white. I then drilled a hole in the bottom for the peg on the flight stand and superglued it to the stand. Two of these were made; one for each team.

Blood Bowl Dugouts

To continue on with the Blood Bowl pitch theme, here are the dugouts!

The dugouts are mounting on the same cardboard/ foam base that the pitch is built on. The locations of the walls were first marked off on the base to make sure that the dugout would be centered.


The walls were cut out of 3/4" Styrofoam to the desired lengths using a hot foam cutter. They were then glued into place and then pinned together and to the base with toothpicks.

Once the glue was dry wall filler was used to cover the Styrofoam walls. A brush was stippled into the filler to create some texture. Once the wall filler was dry it was sanded down to remove any pointy edges that may have formed.

The floor inside the dugout, as well as a trail leading out of the dugout, was covered in the typical PVA glue mix and sand was sprinkled over it.

Once the glue was dry, the exposed foam was brush- painted black and then the piece was spray painted black.

The walls of the dugout were drybrushed from a dark grey color to a white, and the dirt floors were drybrushed from a dark brown to a tan.

After painting the base was flocked with the same mixture as the pitch using my standard method: Two layers of flock and a layer of glue to seal it. Small signs were created in Microsoft Word and glued to the tops of the walls.

Blood Bowl Pitch

This piece was created for use with Games Workshop’s excellent Blood Bowl game.


The basis of the board is expanded Styrofoam (the kind made of little beads) mounted on corrugated cardboard. The edges were covered with masking tape to hide the foam and corrugations in the cardboard.

Next the playing grid was carefully measured out and drawn onto the Styrofoam. I have 1/4" between the lower board edge and the playing pitch and 1/4" between the side board edge and the playing pitch. A 26 x 15 grid was then marked off in 1 1/16" squares (the size of the squares on a standard pitch.)

After the grid was laid out 1/16" tile spacers were glued onto the intersections of the grid lines with tack glue thicker PVA glue.) These define the squares that the field is divided into.

After the glue on the tile spacers had dried sand was glued down in various places to simulate exposed dirt. The whole piece was brush- primed black once the sand was dry. The exposed dirt areas were drybrushed from dark brown to tan.

The turn, re- roll and touchdown tracks were created in Microsoft Word, printed onto heavy paper, cut out and glued into position.

Once the glue was dried a quarter of the board was covered in watered down PVA glue and covered in a flock mixture: Dark green flock, light brown flock, and ground tea leaves from tea bags. Once the board was dry the glue mix and flock were applied again. Once the second layer was dry the piece was covered in a coat of glue mix to prevent the flock from coming off during game play.

The lines were made by cutting a notch out of foam core, them measuring 1/8" increments and taping off sections to get the dashed lines. The only way I could get an absolutely straight line was with my foam core cutter with two blades in it. This resulted in the lines being wider than I wanted them to be, but it still works well.